THE BEST HOTELS
Stylish boutique hotel with 26 suites, pool, tropical garden and restaurant, in a quiet location close to the Old Market. Suites are prettily furnished in Cambodian style, with indoor and outdoor showers (00855 12 654638; goldenbanana.info; doubles from £66 in November, including breakfast).
A Relais & Chateau property with 26 suites and rooms in a tropical garden setting on the Siem Reap river. Offers personalised tours and excursions with its own on-site tour manager (63 969100; heritagesuiteshotel.com; doubles from £99, including breakfast).
La Résidence d’Angkor
Khmer-style Orient-Express property on the Siem Reap river, with a lovely pool, 62 spacious rooms and suites with balconies and a really good spa – the post-temple tour treatment is particularly well judged. Luxurious, with charming young staff and two restaurants (63 963390; residencedangkor.com; doubles from £185 per night, including breakfast).
THE BEST KHMER RESTAURANTS
The city’s restaurants are concentrated in a maze of alleys around Pub Street, just south of the Old French Quarter. If you don’t go to eat, at least have a stroll around and a drink in somewhere like Miss Wong, a cosy, open-fronted bar decorated in Old Shanghai style. This area gets quite lively in the evening but is safe and unthreatening. Khmer cuisine is served at lots of restaurants here; you’ll also find it on the menu at most hotels.
Just behind Pub Street, a small, busy restaurant serving inexpensive authentic Khmer cuisine, including lok lak beef, Khmer curry and amok. Open for lunch and dinner (63 964154).
The Sugar Palm
A traditional wooden house just outside the Pub Street area, offering a more sophisticated take on the local cuisine. Wraparound balcony, wooden floors, friendly atmosphere and delicious food (Ta Phul Road; 63 964838).
This is as smart as Siem Reap dining gets, with such delights as krueng samott (seafood curry) and koh tronouch (grilled beef skewers with crushed lemon grass) in chic but friendly surroundings. Reservations essential for non-residents (63 760333; amanresorts.co